FAQ- General Queries

General Painting Enquiries

How can I tell if my existing paint is water based or oil?

Answer: On a rag (preferably a different colour from the paintwork), pour a decent amount of methylated spirits. Hold the rag against the paintwork for about 30 seconds. After this time, rub the paint with the rag. If the paint softens and comes off on the rag, it is water based. If the Metho does not soften it at all, it's probably an oil base.

Which roller cover do I use for which paint?

Answer: Generally, short nap rollers such as a 5 or 6mm nap are designed for gloss paints and longer nap rollers are used for flatter finishes. The shorter the nap, the smoother the finish is going to be which is ideal for a gloss paint. Low sheen or flat paint requires a longer nap on the roller such as an 12mm or higher to provide a high enough film build.

Can I still paint on a cold day?

Answer: The drying process is severely retarded and paints, especially solvent based paints completely stop drying when the temperature is or falls below 10 degrees. This is why manufacturers put a statement on their labels advising against painting in cold conditions. Even when the temperature is 14 or 15 degrees, the drying time of the coating is going to be dramatically affected, so it must always be taken into consideration. ; On cold days stop painting about mid afternoon so that the paint gets a chance to dry to a certain extent before the cold over night temperatures and dew sets in.

Do I always need an acrylic sealer undercoat on bare plasterboard?

Answer: It is strongly recommended that a wallboard sealer (or sealer undercoat) is applied as it provides a uniform surface for subsequent coats, and contributes to colour and sheen uniformity in the finish.

Do I need to use an undercoat on solid plaster?

Answer: Water based pigmented sealers are not recommended for solid plaster. The only undercoat suitable for solid or set plaster is an oil based pigmented sealer. A water based topcoat can be used after applying either an acrylic or oil based undercoat.

I am ready to start painting my new house. The plastering is all done and the joints are sanded, do I need to use a sealer before painting the top-coats, or can I just paint 2 top-coats of wall paint?

Answer: For the best possible job, it is necessary to use the appropriate undercoat/ sealer, followed by 2 coats of the appropriate top-coat. This system will allow the products you purchase from Haymes to perform at their best.
In some cases, the undercoat/ sealer is not applied in an attempt to cut the costs of the job. However an undercoat/ sealer will always give a superior job in terms of finish and durability.
When painting outside, the story is slightly different. All paint manufacturers have formulated finishes that can be applied directly too most surfaces, including plaster, with no undercoat or primer required. However if you do choose to use the appropriate undercoat or primer outside, you will achieve a far superior finish.

Does acrylic paint go off?

Answer: Water based paints can be attacked by bacteria, (causing a foul smell) but this happens very infrequently these days. Paint stored in a well sealed container will have a shelf life of at least 2 years. As a general rule, if the paint can be readily stirred into a uniform condition it will still be ok to use (irrespective of its age).

I bought a satin polyurethane but it is drying very shiny as if it is a gloss finish.

Answer: The majority of time, this problem occurs because the customer has not stirred the product sufficiently. Satin polyurethane's are basically a gloss polyurethane with a flattening base added. This flattening base has a tendency to settle to the bottom of the can, so if the customer does not stir the product, they are using only the gloss polyurethane portion from the top surface of the can. Every product must be stirred with a wide flat stirrer such as a ruler, before and during use.

What is the difference between a pigmented stain and a dye stain?

Answer: A pigment stain, such as Haymes Woodstain is a turps based stain that is designed to be worked into the timber rather than instantly absorbed. Because it is not completely absorbed, it is very important to wipe off any excess before the product dries. dye stain however, such as the Traditional Spirit Stain soaks into the timber and gives a very clean and bright transparent colour. This stain is not recommended for soft timbers such as pine. Pigmented stains are more lightfast than Dye stains.

What clear can go onto MDF?

Answer: Because MDF and craftwood are man made fibre boards, they contain a lot of resins and waxes. These resins and waxes tend to react with turps or solvent based coatings, mainly affecting the drying properties to the extent that the coating sometimes takes days/weeks to dry. Always seal MDF off with a water based clear or a product specifically designed for MDF first.

Can I mix a stain in with a polyurethane?

Answer: Generally speaking, only a dye/spirit based stain is compatible to be mixed into a solvent based clear. The mixing ratio is usually 10% or less of stain into the clear.
It can often be done successfully but it depends on the products and the colour required. As every situation is different, it is always advisable to experiment on a trial area or off-cut to determine whether the end result is satisfactory. Addition of stain should be 'as little as possible' and in any case should not exceed 10%.

I need a clear coating that will not yellow, which one can I use?

Answer: In general, water based products are less prone to yellowing upon ageing.

I'm using a pigment stain and it is too dark. How can I lighten it?

Answer: Thinning the stain down with turps will lighten the colour and make the stain even more transparent.

What are the advantages of using a sealer before coating my floors with a solvent based coating?

Answer: A sealer is designed to penetrate into the surface of the timber, which aids in adhesion. The fast drying properties of the sealers also can assist in entrapping natural oils etc. into the timber, therefore not effecting the finish coats. The benefit for the customer is that the sealers are generally thinner in consistency which makes them easier to apply and are dry enough in about an hour to continue with the finish coats. (Check label for drying times.)

Answer: The reason this happens is that the first coat has not dried thoroughly and the wet solvents in the second coat attack the moist solvents in the first coat. The first coat may not be dry for several reasons such as temperature, too thick a film build, moisture or naturally occurring resins in the timber.

I want to paint a masonry wall. Do I use a primer or sealer?

Answer: A sealer is recommended in this case to keep the top coat from being absorbed unevenly. Applying a sealer will make the finished job look smooth and uniform.

What paint can I use to paint over silicone sealed windows?

Answer: No paint is recommended over this surface.

I have painted my cavity doors in enamel and have noticed that they are starting to yellow. Why?

Answer: Enamels tend to yellow naturally compared to water based products. This yellowing process is accelerated due to;
1.) Lack of light
2.) The presence of ammonia based paint fumes.
3.) The use of ammonia based cleaners.

Can I use one brand of undercoat followed by another brand's topcoat for my painting job?

Answer: Generally speaking, yes. It is not encouraged however, as if problems occur, it becomes very difficult to pin-point which product is to blame or what the cause of the problem was related to.

When do I need to apply a primer?

Answer: A primer should be applied to any surface that has never been painted before. When repainting, a primer is needed when the surface is uneven in porosity, or when the surface has been stripped of paint or is worn down to the substrate (eg. bare metal).

When I purchase paint in a particular colour, can I be guaranteed it will match the colour card?

Answer: Colours shown on the colour cards are as close as printing processes allow. The paint itself will appear darker in large areas and shade variations may occur as gloss levels vary.

Why are ultra premium products better than the other ranges?

Answer: Not only are the raw materials that go into the making of the product better quality, but the manufacturing process also plays a part in the degree of quality of the products, for example, the amount of time the paint is actually milled for. A top quality product will tend to be easier to apply, more washable, more durable and more resistant to harsh weather conditions.
Relative paint quality is dependant on a number of factors including material selection, and material content. Lower quality paints' formulations can be 'cost trimmed' and therefore not give the same performance.

Can a satin acrylic be mixed with a low sheen acrylic?

Answer: Generally speaking, manufacturers do not condone this practice because it tends to alter the performance and characteristic properties of the product(s). However in saying this, most water based products are compatible with each other.

I want to apply Magic Effects Real Copper Paint to a rendered brick wall surrounding a water feature. Whilst the water does not fall directly across this surface, the wall is exposed to the elments, inclusive of a hot summer sun. Is this finish suitable for this location? If yes, what would the anticipated life of this product in this situation?

Answer: The Magic Effects Real Copper Paint is primarily designed as an indoor finish and so, strictly speaking, is not for exterior use. However, if the surface onto which it is to be applied, has been prepared well and 2 good coats have been applied, then it could last between 4 and 6 years in an exterior situation.